Travel Guide

Byron Bay Bliss: Exploring the Best Beaches, Food, and Culture

Fog covering Federal, Australia, at sunrise

Fog covering the low-lying hills below Federal, Australia

In my travel outline I detail the purpose of these family travel guides along with how our family prioritizes our budget and how we structure our days. The travel outline also contains an index of all travel guides. If you have any recommendations that are not covered below, leave a comment and let me know!

Enjoy!


As I detailed in Part 1 of the Byron Bay Travel Guide, our family had the incredible fortune of visiting Byron Bay, Australia, for three weeks in 2017 (thus the retro photos of the boys). Sara and the boys were on winter break and I was working remotely at the time so I was able to have the weirdest schedule of my working career living on Australian time and working on Central Time. 

For part 2 of the travel guide I'll be covering some tips for your Australian family travels and I'll also be covering what we ate (and loved).


Byron Bay Beaches just below the Lighthouse

Beautiful beaches outside of Byon Bay, and just below the Lighthouse

If you're looking for a “ripper of a time” in Australia, the Hinterlands of Queensland are a top-notch destination. It's the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and immerse yourself in nature, culture, and cuisine. So grab your thongs (that's Aussie slang for flip-flops, not underwear), and let's take a gander at what the hinterlands have to offer.

Coffee plantation in Australia, near Federal

Australian coffee plantation from the air

First up, hiking. Now, we all know Aussies love a good walkabout, and the Hinterlands have no shortage of trails to get your bushwalking fix. Just watch out for the snakes and spiders, though - they're not as cuddly and awesome as the local koalas. The hills and swimming holes near Whian Whian Conservation Area offer miles of hiking and tramping and the views are just exceptional as you see the acres of Macadamia farms in the distance.

Byron Bay is another must-see destination in the Hinterlands. It's famous for its stunning beaches, laid-back vibe, and Bohemian culture. You can surf, swim, eat, climb to the lighthouse, or just soak up the sun on the sand.

When you're done with all the adrenaline-pumping activities in the surf on the shores of Byron Bay or Lennox Head, it's time to explore the charming towns and villages in the area. Though Byron Bay grabs the headlines Bangalow is probably our favorite.

HankNTank-7535.jpg

Henry using a “flying fox” (a zipline) at Binna Burra National Park and Sky Lodge

It is a quaint little village that's full of surprises, with funky cafes, boutique shops, and colorful houses. It's the kind of place that makes you feel like you've stepped back in time with lots of historic shops and buildings preserved and taken care of. And if you're very lucky, you might even spot one of those koalas chilling out in one of the gum trees.

There is one place that I’d say is a must-try, even if you don’t buy anything, and that’s The Farm. It’s a working farm with tons for the family (and everyone else) to do. Chickens wandering, cows and pigs nearby, fresh ice cream, so many ingredients that were grown 100 yards away… it’s paradise. It’s a bit expensive but delicious and wonderful experience.

Federal is a small town that's bursting with personality. It's the kind of place where everyone is welcomed. You can stroll down the main street and check out the local shops and restaurants. And, you won’t have to look hard to catch a glimpse of the wild Federal hippie - a breed of human that's known for its love of tie-dye, incense, and acoustic guitars.

While looking at a map it would seem that Federal is an isolated food desert, but it's actually the opposite and there are several ridiculously good restaurants and artisanal coffee everywhere.

  • Doma: This really is the crown jewel, so why not start there. Fantastic outdoor dining space with picnic tables and music on the weekends. Kids can climb in trees, follow the chickens that wander the property, and eat gobs of sushi, halloumi burgers, smoothies, kombucha, and other pure deliciousness. This place is just spectacular.

HankNTank-7040.jpg

Byron Bay Lighthouse with the family. Gorgeous views, and remarkable coastlines

  • Federal General Store: It's a "simple" grocery store and post office but it was our go-to for small items, popsicles, Australia's amazing ginger beer, and my beloved spearmint Aero Bars. If you ever want to know the fastest way to my heart, just surprise me with one of those :)

  • Crystal Castle cafe: I suggested Crystal Castle in Part 1 for its activities, but I also need to suggest it for its cafe. It's a super weird place and it's expensive, I am totally aware of that, but it's also gorgeous with an incredible view of the rolling hills surrounding Bangalow and you can absolutely just lose yourself in it's forests and hidden areas. The cafe is super healthy, a bit expensive, but super delicious all with another impressive view of the forests below. 

Now, let's talk about the food. Aussies love their grub, and the Hinterlands have some real beauties on offer. Make sure you hit up the farmers' markets in the area for fresh produce and locally made cheeses, and locally grown produce. And don't forget to try the local specialties, like macadamia nuts and honey. Just be warned, though - once you try farm-fresh Aussie cuisine, you might never want to go back to your own farmer’s market fare.


Highlights we loved about the Hinterlands:

  • Australia has awesome travel stops and rest areas all throughout their highway system

  • The food is so much more local, natural, and healthy than we our Central Texas palettes were prepared for

  • National Parks are FREE

  • Swimming holes

  • The warm and beautiful ocean

  • Light houses

What to be plan for:

HankNTank-7825.jpg

Beautiful parrot at Macadamia Castle

  • Speed cameras: in the United States we have heard about speed cameras, but we’re much more familiar with red light cameras. In Australia, and especially in the Byron Bay area, they use speed cameras to monitor and ticket you for speed violations all over the place. When you see a sign that says a road is monitored by a speed camera take it seriously. They also have less than a 10 kilometer/hour threshold on these cameras which means that if you go over by any more than that you’ll receive a several hundred dollar ticket in the mail (or more… I had no idea it was so serious).

  • Snakes! There are lots of snakes and animals that we weren’t used to and you should absolutely take it seriously. We did see several carpet pythons on our trip and these are actually loved as they are non-venomous and keep the very dangerous brown snakes at bay.

  • Keep at least $100 in cash. While we didn’t run into many cash-only situations there are enough that you’ll be grateful you had it.

  • Weird cults around Crystal Castle area. We never had any troubles but they do exist and it’s a bit of a shock if you’re not prepared for it.

  • Your phone’s data plan: If you don't have an Australian sim card for your phone, I recommend downloading Google Maps for offline use. This saved us, literally, hundreds of dollars. And, make sure to download a larger area of a map than you think you'll explore. For one adventure we went just beyond the map I downloaded and we were lucky to find our way back on course.

HankNTank-0035.jpg

Lennox Head coastal area seen from a drone

HankNTank-7421.jpg

Let the sun shine!

A post shared by Matthew Bradford (@mattyrunrun) on

HankNTank-7842.jpg

Kangaroo at Macadamia Castle

MCB-6812.jpg

Our home for several weeks near Federal, Australia

MCB-6959.jpg

The Farm, just outside of Byron Bay, with the boys.

MCB-7593.jpg

Visiting the beaches of the Gold Coast after running the Binna Burra Marathon

MCB-7620.jpg

Just one of the many gorgeous national parks in the Byron Bay region.

MCB-7890.jpg

Swimming holing in the Federal area

HankNTank-7189.jpg

Henry having a GREAT time at Crystal Castle

Discover the Hidden Gem: Stinson Beach Travel Guide

Stinson Beach from a drone looking south (San Francisco is just over those mountains)

Stinson Beach from a drone looking south (San Francisco is just over those mountains)

Gosh, Stinson Beach is the best.

Stinson Beach is located about 45 minutes north of San Francisco, just up Highway 1 on the western side of Muir Woods and Mt. Tamalpais.

Three out of the past four years our family has absolutely clung to this area like a sea anemone to a rock in a tide pool (that’s coastal humor) and it seems like this is very much our family’s natural habitat (if we could afford the million dollar price tags on these modest homes).

You can review our typical daily vacation habits here. While planning a family vacation, we try to solve for our various vacation “needs”:

  • I want mountains, trail running, temperate conditions, and clean air, but also conveniences (I’m a pampered “outdoorsman”)

  • My wife loves the beach, baked goods, heat, and HGTV

  • The boys just want to play on the beach and in nature and get a new LEGO set. They also love watching cartoons (and we like them watching so we can get a break), so a TV or wireless is a must.

Stinson Beach checks all of our boxes (with the exception of warm weather for my wife but I can put her next to a space heater) and it has the added benefit of being so close to so many dear friends in the Bay Area. We even had the privilege of having my brother, Johnny BH, come up from Los Angeles (yes, it’s an extremely long drive) to teach the kids to surf and be beach bums (emphasis on the bums).

Tandem surfing is apparently a thing

Tandem surfing is apparently a thing

Uncle Johnny BH teaching Tate to surf… in a weird way

Uncle Johnny BH teaching Tate to surf… in a weird way

If you’re thinking of planning a family trip and your vacation needs overlap in a Venn diagram with ours, I can’t recommend Stinson Beach enough. Airbnb is packed with homes that are available and almost any time of the year that you come it will feel like its wonderful sleepy-beach self. So, go and book your trip. This blog will be here when you return :)


Welcome back! Now that your trip has been booked, here are some recommendations to keep you and your loved ones entertained. And, because photography is my favorite thing to do besides trail running, below is a buffet of photos from this year’s trip.

Where to stay:

  • Again, though I’ve heard stories of awful Airbnb stays, I cannot recommend the service enough. While we’ve had underwhelming stays, the stays have never been so far off that we’ve considered doing-away with the service all-together. I haven’t found a better, cheaper, more interesting way to travel with a family.

  • Matt, why does it work for your family?:

What to eat: This is our specialty. WARNING: We aren’t fancy and we value quantity and quality ingredients, over unique and expensive dining experiences.

The red woods of Muir Woods

The red woods of Muir Woods

  • The Siren Canteen: OH MY GOODNESS. The food is excellent. The view is excellent. It’s in a friggin’ converted lighthouse. And, the memories we had with our friends, Michael and Erica, are just scrumptious. Awesome tacos and drinks. Just confirm ahead of time that it will be open!

  • Parkside Snack Bar: We ate here a ridiculous number of times. Excellent burgers and it’s situated right next to a playground and the beach.

  • Parkside Cafe: The expensive older brother to Parkside Snack Bar. Great breakfast and really nice people. Also, they sometimes have live music. Our kids could not be wrangled or tamed this trip and we opted to save everyone headaches by not dining here.

  • Stinson Beach Market: Small, nice, and relatively affordable groceries (considering how far from a big town it is) on the main strip of Stinson. The homemade moonpies at the counter are excellent and they have a big alcohol selection if that’s your thing!

  • Whole Foods - Mill Valley (on Miller): Probably the most-gorgeous Whole Foods that I’ve ever been to. Situated in what feels like a hanger, covered in ivy with the mountains in the background.

  • Eleven B&B - Bolinas: We lucked into this place. Excellent deserts, good music, and beautiful windowed bench seating if you get there at the right time. Rotating, and kinda expensive, menu, but definitely delicious. They have a bed and breakfast attached to the restaurant and it appears really pretty in the photos, but we didn’t get to see it first-hand.

  • Gospel Flat Farm Stand - Bolinas: Awesome market AND gallery as you make your way into Bolinas. This is the perfect combination for me.

What to do:

  • Stinson Beach: Excellent beach with showers, bathrooms, and stunning (usually foggy) views of the mountains. San Francisco is completely obstructed by the mountains and it feels like you’re in your own little world, super-far from the city.

  • Dipsea Trail: This is tied for my favorite run of all time. It’s absolutely fantastic with so many different types of trails. Rutty, rainforest-ish trails, dry grass trails, huge climbs, city views, ocean views, and quad splitting efforts all around. I’m lucky-enough to have a wife who will pick me up on the other side of the run so that I can run from Stinson Beach over to Mill Valley.

  • Old Mill Park - Mill Valley: For the kids this will go down as my favorite playground ever. The park’s perimeter is defined by GIANT redwoods, a gurgling stream, and steep mountain. It’s absolutely incredible. Bring a picnic and just soak it up.

  • Agate Beach - Bolinas: This is a funky one and you have to do a bit of troubleshooting on unpaved roads to get here. We, luckily, had some locals point us to this spot. Gorgeous (and dangerous) cliff sides with a steep path to hike down to get to your own, private beach. I would recommend that you be extremely careful with little ones (or just not bring them at all). Our kiddos are 5 and 7 and it was a bit difficult right at the end for our five year old. Also, you’ll want to check tides to make sure that they don’t surprise you!

  • Muir Woods: Just exquisite piece of conservation. Redwoods. Infinite hiking trails that lead into other parks. Dense canopies. Smells like you wouldn’t believe.

What to be weary of:

  • The Bay Area and Mill Valley/Stinson Beach is super expensive in general: I know that Austin, Texas, is expensive, but the Bay Area is a whole different level. Go shopping. Pack tons of meals and eat in if you have to. You can get by spending $0 on entertainment because there’s just so much for your kids to do outside at the parks and on the trails.

  • Fire: The past two years when we’ve gone in the fall we’ve either come just as a major fire has broken out nearby or we’ve come right after a major fire was put out. Climate change is severely impacting the surrounding areas and it can be a major risk.

  • The People of Bolinas: We had an excellent experience with folks from Bolinas but from everything we’ve gathered they do not want the city to be on any outsider’s map. Folks steal road signs directing where to turn to get to Bolinas, people won’t sell property unless the buyer has been vouched for, roads are largely unpaved, and awesome parks are intentionally hidden. Again, we had an awesome, awesome visit, and food and people and parks were wonderful, but they seem to prefer to remain introverted and unseen.

  • Distance to an Urgent Care/Hospital: Tater had another one of his fun injuries with two pink eyes and lots of puss in the middle of the night. I know that it can be treated without antibiotics and it’s not always an emergency, but his eyes were swelling shut and my wife was blaming me because she thought it was because Henry kicked sand in his eyes (that’s a whole other story). Sorry. I digress. It’s difficult to get to a hospital/urgent care facility if you need one. We tried to go in Bolinas, and then Stinson Beach, and they were all closed (though they said they wouldn’t be). So, we had to go over the mountains and through the woods to Mill Valley to a really nice urgent care facility off the highway.

Please, let me know if you have any suggestions for things that I’ve missed!

Scroll down for some additional photos from our wonderful trip :).

To view other travel blog posts check these out

The boys and Sara from above :)

The boys and Sara from above :)

Uncle John teaching his little shredders how to “hang”

Uncle John teaching his little shredders how to “hang”

The road down to Stinson Beach from our AirBnB

The road down to Stinson Beach from our AirBnB

Henry post body boarding

Henry post body boarding

The little ones playing at sunset

The little ones playing at sunset

Henry and Sara brunching it up. She’s such a Miranda.

Henry and Sara brunching it up. She’s such a Miranda.

Uncle John and the boys climbing up from Agate Beach

Uncle John and the boys climbing up from Agate Beach

The gorgeous, and foggy, hills behind our Stinson Beach home

The gorgeous, and foggy, hills behind our Stinson Beach home